dorothée piot
The interview Les Bains Guerbois
What is your most beautiful olfactory memory?
I have many of them but there is one that comes back every summer in our garden in Normandy
When the sun goes down, with the humidity falling, the smell of the earth reveals all the perfumes stored during the day, the opulent flowers, the humus, the cut grass; it is an emotion renewed each time.
Other memories are also related to cooking, spices, aromatic herbs, It is in the kitchen and garden that my passion for perfumes was born.
Why did you become a perfumer? What was the triggering moment?
Perfume has unsuspected magical powers, provoking indescribable emotions; impalpable and I think I wanted to make “hearts beat”.
The triggering moment was a meeting with a perfumer. I didn’t know that it was possible to make a profession out of it. From this meeting was born my vocation.
Where did you learn this trade?
2 senior perfumers helped me at the beginning: Raymond Chaillan who gave me the taste for beautiful materials and Martin Gras who, thanks to his enthusiasm, gave me confidence in myself and I was able to carry out my projects.
What is your day like at the office?
This may seem repetitive but in fact I am working on several projects at once
In the morning, I evaluate the tests of the day before, background notes and I rectify the balances
I review the current creations with the sales team and with the brands that have entrusted us with projects.
How do you discover new raw materials? Do you have a favorite country or region that you visit often for inspiration?
I am fortunate to have high quality raw materials available in my collection.
I am curious by nature and no matter where I am or what country I am in, my “nose is on alert”.
What are your favorite materials to create a perfume? Why?
At the beginning, I had preconceived ideas about certain materials and little by little I realized that by using them, by taming them, I discovered interesting facets and that by overcoming the difficulty, I often succeeded in creating beautiful agreements.
I naturally have fetish materials, incense, woody notes like patchouli which for me has multiple facets, leather notes.
How can we recognize your olfactory signature?
It is difficult to answer this question, I am often told that it is through my work on the woody notes, on my way of highlighting them, of emphasizing their facets that one recognizes my creations.
What do you think is the difference between commercial and niche perfumery?
Niche perfumery allows us to explore more singular agreements, to shape the material.
Where did you meet the founder of our brand, Jean-Pierre Marois? What inspired you to work with him?
I met with Jean-Pierre Marois to create the olfactory identity of the Baths.
I knew “les Bains” by reputation, its history linked to all those who frequented it. the building was then in work and Jean-Pierre opened the doors of the place to us. I found that rather crazy to be there, to still feel this atmosphere a little sulphurous, to be privileged also to discover before everyone the renovated building.
It is a beautiful inspiring place beyond its history.
You have created the olfactory signature of our Hotel Les Bains with the perfume Atmosphere as well as two Eaux de Parfum “1885 Bains Sulfureux” and “2013 Résidence d’Artistes”.
If you had to identify a common link between the three creations, what would it be?
The accord of woods, patchouli, cedar, sandalwood and incense present in the 3 creations.
What were the inspirations for the creation of Atmosphere?
I immediately imagined in the subdued atmosphere notes of wood, leather, a fresh spicy note that plays the contrast, and as an echo to the volutes of smoke, notes of incense.
What were the elements of inspiration at the Bains to create the Eau de Parfum ” 1885 Bains Sulfureux ” ?
I wanted to create a powdery, soft, balmy, comforting, musky fragrance with aromatic accents, rosemary like fumigations.
What were the elements of inspiration at Les Bains to create the Eau de Parfum “2013 Artist’s Residence”?
It is naturally the work of artists that inspired me.
I wanted to start with more raw woods a little raspy, woody as cedar and patchouli. I also had in mind the moisture of cold stones, the dry side of cinnamon bark. I faceted these materials and softened with musk.
What is your advice for choosing a perfume?
Take your time, follow it on the skin but also spray it in a room, close the door and open it again to discover it in its entirety.
Do not try to recognize the ingredients, let yourself go and seduce or not.